2023 Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassage-Montrachet "Les Chaumes"

Around 200 cases made, depending on the vintage. Tighter and more Puligny-like than its siblings — precise, racy, and mineral-driven, with a knife-edge acidity on the finish that cuts clean through the intense fruit and lingers with quiet authority. Les Chaumes borders the premier cru La Boudriotte directly, and while technically a village-level lieu-dit, it consistently performs above its classification — certified organic since 2014, whole-cluster pressed, 18–20 months in oak with restrained new wood, minimal filtration. The Paquelin family kept a vigneron's diary through the French Revolution — that lineage eventually became Gagnard, then Caroline Lestimé, who has run the domaine since 1989 and systematically brought one of Chassagne's most important estates into organic farming without losing a single step in quality. The best village-level white Burgundy in the shop — and it isn't close.