Hervé Villemade farms organically in Cheverny in the Loire Valley, where he works old vines on flint and clay soils. Les Ardilles is a single-vineyard Cheverny rouge of Pinot Noir and Gamay, fermented whole-cluster with a long maceration and raised in foudre, barrel and amphora. It is unfined and unfiltered, with sulfur added only at bottling, so the fruit stays pure and expressive. Open it with a mushroom tart or duck rillettes and serve it with a light chill.