2024 Christian Tschida Birdscape

A cult-favorite natural winemaker from Austria's Burgenland, Tschida tends his horse-farmed vineyards with obsessive care and lets his wines do all the talking. Birdscape defies easy categorization — made with what Tschida calls "pink maceration," a very light skin extraction of Blaufränkisch, Pinot Noir, and some white varieties from 40-year-old vines, fermented in a single 3,000-liter barrel with indigenous yeast, bottled unfined, unfiltered, and without sulfur. Red currant, white cherry, and forest floor on the nose, with crunchy acidity, saline minerality, and a graphite finish. Part rosé, part light red — entirely thrilling.

Majestic with tuna crudo.