2022 Taupenot Merme Bourgogne Passetoutgrain

Passetoutgrain means “toss it all in” in the local Burgundian dialect because winemakers of old did just that–co-fermented Pinot Noir with Gamay to give themselves something bright and fresh to drink while the remainder of their harvest aged. The Taupenot’s 2022 fills that same role; ready to drink tonight, it’s both elegant and eminently quaffable with explosive aromatics, a palate-awakening acidity, and notes of ripe red fruit and a dusting of allspice. It would be easy to pass over a Passetoutgrain among the nineteen cuvées Domaine Taupenot-Merme produces from venerated vineyards across the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, but don’t skip this bargain introduction to a Burgundy master. -Kermit Lynch