Julian Haart apprenticed with Egon Müller and Klaus Peter Keller. That’s like learning to draw under da Vinci and Picasso.

The Haart family has been writing a wine-growing tradition in Piesport since 1337 and is one of the oldest wine-growing families on the Mosel.

Part of the joy of winemaking, for Julian, is doing everything, just he and his wife Nadine, and maybe some friends. The estate has grown to a little more than five hectares and this is, roughly, where Julian and Nadine want it to stay.

This is vineyard work, and winemaking, at the most human scale. Nearly everything must be done by hand – most of the vineyards are steep as hell and most of them are terraced. Even walking through them is a bit hazardous.