While Punta Crena’s wines are easy quaffers, it is also possible to geek out about them, if that’s your thing. Rossese is a somewhat obscure Ligurian grape with a knack for communicating its terroir—in this case, Varigotti’s red clay—which brings uncommon roundness, the wild Ligurian brush with its herbal notes, and the emblematic coastal air salinity.- Kermit Lynch
