Leon Gold Pink Gold Pet Nat

Leon Gold — yes, that is his real name — fell for vines as a kid watching his neighbors vineyards in the Remstal, then went to oenology school at Weinsberg and came home to farm 45-year-old Trollinger on sandstone and marl, certified organic and worked biodynamically by the moon.

Pink Gold is his pét-nat cuvée made with the natural-wine crew at Super Glou: a week on skins, wild ferment, finished in the bottle with zero added sulfur, unfined and unfiltered. It is tart, zippy, and blindingly fresh — pink grapefruit, underripe strawberry, wild rose, and a slap of minerality on the finish. The bottle that tastes like golden hour feels.